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滑雪,將席卷中國的下一波運動熱潮嗎?

  冬天像往常一樣隨著咆哮的西伯利亞寒風降臨北京。寒流呼嘯著穿過胡同和環城公路,鉆進你家門縫,鉆進你的衣衫。那是12月初。名為“大雪”的節氣已經來臨,到了該下大雪的時候。

鳥瞰石京龍滑雪場,“一條寬敞的雪道像一條奶油色的舌頭,劈開了凡戴克棕色的山麓。”

Winter came to Beijing as usual with howling Siberian winds. The cold current whistles through the alley and the ring road, into your door, into your clothes. It was early December. The solar term named "heavy snow" has come, it is time for heavy snow.

  但是不會有雪,北京幾乎從來不下雪。2018年的最后幾天是清朗的,夜晚的點點星光刺穿了這座城市的橙色圓頂。雪并不重要。重要的是寒冷,現在,這里的人們可以搞事情了。

  But there will be no snow. It almost never snows in Beijing. The last days of 2018 were clear, with the city's orange dome pierced by starlight at night. Snow is not important. The important thing is the cold. Now, people here can do things.

  那是周六,南山滑雪場開張了。它是距北京一小時車程的10個滑雪場之一。滑雪場里擠滿了人。在過去的四天,這里的32門雪炮一直在發射著可以亂真的蓬松晶體,工人們推著它們覆蓋了幾座山坡。擴音器敦促初學者不要上中級滑道。情侶們穿著租來的亮藍色滑雪服,懶洋洋地躺在陽光露臺上。廚房里水汽蒸騰,送出一碗又一碗麻辣滾燙的湯。

  It was Saturday and the nanshan ski resort opened. It is one of 10 ski resorts an hour's drive from Beijing. The ski resort was packed with people. For the past four days, 32 snow cannons here have been firing true-form fluffy crystals that workers have pushed over several hillsides. The loudspeaker urged beginners not to go up the intermediate course. Couples lounged on a sunny terrace in bright blue rented ski suits. The kitchen is steaming, sending out bowls of spicy, scalding soup.

  “老兄,這個季節有點晚了,”英文名叫Marco的黃雪峰說。他40出頭,身體結實,前不久因為一次滑雪事故,眼睛上留了一道傷疤。作為南山麥羅單板公園(Mellow Parks)公司的主要締造者,他花了整個上午的時間來搭建小跳臺,把野餐桌擺放得恰到好處,好讓雙板和單板玩家可以在上面玩。“太暖和了,伙計,”他在辦公室里說。“一星期之前,這兒一點都看不到。我是說土。”

  Man, it's a little late in the season, said huang xuefeng, whose English name is Marco. He was in his early 40s, a burly man with a recent eye scar from a skiing accident. As the lead creator of a company called Mellow Parks in south hill, he spent the morning setting up little skips and setting up picnic tables just right for double - and single-boarders to play on. "It's too warm, man," he said in his office. "A week ago, I couldn't see anything here. I mean dirt."

  在中國的這個地區,一個季節只下一兩次真雪,而且通常只是一點雪塵。但是2022年冬奧會即將到來,無論是天氣還是貿易戰都無法阻止這個世界上人口最多的國家培育出人類有史以來最大的雪上運動熱潮。數十億美元的滑雪勝地以創紀錄的速度紛紛涌現,坐在纜車上可以看到所有造雪景觀。許多團體舉辦集體培訓,宣揚雪地滑行的樂趣。這是黨計劃中的一部分:要在冬奧會開幕前培養3億“冬季運動愛好者”。這個數字是法國、德國和瑞士人口總和的兩倍。

  In this part of China, it only snows once or twice a season, and it's usually just a little bit of snow dust. But with the 2022 winter Olympics coming up, neither the weather nor the trade war will stop the world's most populous nation from fostering the biggest snowsport craze in human history. Multi-billion dollar ski resorts are springing up at record rates, with all the snow-making visible from a cable car. Many groups organize group training to promote the fun of skiing. It's part of the party's plan to train 300 million "winter sports enthusiasts" before the games begin. That is twice the population of France, Germany and Switzerland combined.

  這些熱鬧場面主要發生在崇禮,大馬群山中一個格外寒冷的地方,位于北京西北大約150英里(約合240公里)處。那里將舉辦一些滑雪項目,至少有6個新的滑雪場在被征用的土豆田上拔地而起。對于世界各地的奧運觀眾來說,他們對中國滑雪的第一印象將來自崇禮。很少有人會關注南山。

  Much of the excitement took place in chongli, an unusually cold place in the dama mountains, about 150 miles northwest of Beijing. There will be some skiing events, and at least six new resorts will be built on requisitioned potato fields. For Olympic spectators around the world, their first impression of Chinese skiing will come from the ceremony. Few people pay attention to nanshan.

  然而,我和一個朋友從太平洋西北地區飛了13個小時,看到了比奧運會更令人興奮的事情:一座向南的山峰,山頂高度不到270米。開幕當天,4500多名雙板和單板滑雪板者將沿著一個個雪坡滑到這座山的半山腰,只有90米的垂直高度。雪坡很短,滑行只能持續幾秒鐘。在最繁忙的節假日,超過9000人會擠進南山,裝備出租店也會被租空。<-->紐約時報中英文網 http://www.zvkdrb.live<-->

  However, after a 13-hour flight from the Pacific northwest with a friend, we saw something even more exciting than the Olympics: a southward peak, less than 270 meters high. On the opening day, more than 4,500 double - and snowboarders will slide down the slopes to a vertical height of just 90 meters. The slope is so short that the slide only lasts a few seconds. During the busiest holidays, more than 9,000 people crowd into nanshan, and equipment rental shops are rented out.

  “奧運會對中國來說意義重大,會有更多滑雪場地和更多賽事,這很好,但我們在這里做的事情太不一樣了,”馬可說。他朝窗外做了個手勢,那里正在用線標記他要跳下去的地方。“我們想告訴人們,雪上運動不是運動。用不著訓練,用不著嚴肅。就是和朋友一起滑。”

  The Olympics mean a lot to China, and it's good to have more ski resorts and more events, but what we do here is so different, Mr. Ma said. He made a sign out of the window where he was marking his place with a line. "We want to tell people that snow sports are not sports. No training, no seriousness. Just skiing with friends."

  滑雪小子去中國

  Skier boy goes to China

  過去9個冬天,約翰·奧斯坦多夫(John Ostendorff)和我大部分周末都在我們俄勒岡州家鄉的滑雪區巴徹勒山滑雪。我們計劃12月初去北京一周。有些公司愿意幫你安排一切,但是自己動手感覺更好。除此之外,我還希望滑雪小子式的旅行能提供最好的機會,讓我們遇到其他滑雪愛好者。我們會乘坐公共汽車和火車,使用百度和滴滴這樣的中國出行應用,并在中國社交媒體應用微信上發布我們的照片。

  For the past nine winters, John Ostendorff and I have spent most weekends skiing in bachlor, a ski area in our hometown in Oregon. We plan to go to Beijing for a week in early December. Some companies will arrange everything for you, but it feels better to do it yourself. In addition, I hope the ski kid trip will provide the best opportunity for us to meet other skiers. We take buses and trains, use Chinese travel apps like baidu and didi, and post our photos on Chinese social media app WeChat.

  “我加入,”約翰說。

  I'm in, said John.

  我們在北京的第一個完整的一天,清早的溫度只有零下10度,風像飛起的金屬板一樣襲來。騎電動摩托車的人們身前裹著被子,繞過滿載大蔥的大車。約翰和一些本地人一起玩毽子,這是一種和踢沙包差不多的游戲,被踢來踢去的是帶羽毛的毽子。后來,我們看到一群經過繞圈飛行訓練的鴿子,它們尾巴上掛的哨子發出奇異空靈的呼嘯。這種名叫“鴿鈴”的藝術已經快消亡,但在胡同里仍然存在。

  On our first full day in Beijing, the early morning temperature was 10 degrees below zero, and the wind was blowing like a sheet of metal. People on electric scooters, wrapped in quilts, bypass carts loaded with scallions. John and some of the locals played shuttlecock, a game akin to kicking sandbags with feathered shuttlecocks. Then we see a flock of pigeons trained to fly in circles, their tails whistling ethereally. The art called "pigeon bells" is dying out, but it still exists in hutongs.

  我和約翰在石京龍匆匆布置好場地,這是北京第一個在市區附近開放的滑雪場,它于1999年開放,位于延慶,北京市區西北約80公里處一群單調乏味的高樓和農田之中。當時中國大概有20個滑雪場,今天有700多個,而石京龍真是個奇跡。它有10條長達一公里的滑雪道,占地20公頃,有200米的垂直落差。在中國北方的平原上,你可以面朝太陽滑雪。隨著人們紛紛前來,街道開始擁堵。從那時起,大雪就已經不重要了:石京龍擁有全國第一個人工造雪系統。

    蛐蛐英語 www.zvkdrb.live

  John and I hurriedly laid out the ground in shijinglong, Beijing's first ski resort to open near the city proper, which opened in 1999 amid a cluster of dull skyscrapers and farmland in yanqing, about 80 kilometers northwest of downtown Beijing. There were about 20 ski resorts in China then. Today there are more than 700. It has 10 1km long ski runs, covers an area of 20 hectares and has a 200-metre vertical drop. On the plains of northern China, you can ski facing the sun. As people came, the streets began to jam. Since then, snow has been of little importance: shi jinglong has the country's first artificial snow-making system.

  如今,要想以窮人的方式到達滑雪區,你得先去北京古老的德勝門箭樓,這是一座有上翹屋檐的建筑,一個棕色長方形龐然大物,坐落在二環路邊一座有500年歷史的城樓上。幾個世紀以前,皇帝的軍隊征戰歸來,就是從這道門入城。今天,它成了一個繁忙的公共汽車站。

  Today, to get to the ski district in a poor way, you have to head to Beijing's ancient deshengmen archery, a brown, rectangular behemoth with upended eaves that sits atop a 500-year-old tower on the side of the second ring road. It was through this gate that the emperor's army had come back from the war centuries before. Today, it is a busy bus stop.

  我們笨拙地擠上了擁擠的919路車,搶到了最后兩個座位,慶幸我們沒有帶上笨重的滑雪板。一幢幢公寓樓消失在身后,眼前出現了凋敝的棕色山坡。公共汽車飛快地穿過長城下的隧道。

  We clumsily squeezed into the crowded 919 and grabbed the last two seats, thankful we hadn't packed our heavy skis. Apartment blocks disappeared behind them, and brown hillsides faded in front of them. The bus sped through the tunnel under the Great Wall.

  倒車后我們迷了路,在花了三個小時和大約3美元后,我們一路小跑著來到大青山腳下的石京龍入口。“我看到滑雪的人了!”約翰興奮起來。一條寬敞的雪道像一條奶油色的舌頭,劈開了凡戴克棕色的山麓。

  After backing out, we lost our way, and after three hours and about $3, we trotted all the way to the entrance to shi jinglong at the foot of daqingshan. "I see the skiers!" John became excited. A wide ski trail, like a cream tongue, cleaves through the brown foothills of van dyck.

  當奧運會到來的時候,你會聽到很多關于延慶的故事,但可能不會聽說石京龍。這是因為滑雪比賽、雪橇和冰橇等運動項目都將在延慶的其他地方舉行,地點在五英里外全新的國家高山滑雪滑道中心小海坨。準備在奧運會后運營小海坨的萬科公司也一直在向石京龍投資。在這里,一堆小商店、一個滑雪中心和外面的區域都得到了妥善的修整。滑雪學校附近的墻上掛著人們閑逛的照片。一排排巨大的新公寓樓從山上拔地而起。

  When the Olympics come, you'll hear a lot about yanqing, but you probably won't hear about shi jinglong. That's because skiing events, sledding and ice sledding will all be held elsewhere in yanqing, five miles away, at xiaohaituo, the brand-new national center for alpine skiing. Vanke, which plans to operate xiaohaituo after the Olympics, has also been investing in shi. Here, a cluster of small shops, a ski center and the outside area have been properly restored. Pictures of people hanging around the walls near the ski school. Huge rows of new apartment buildings rise from the mountains.

  在中國的許多滑雪場可以租裝備,按小時購買纜車票。獲得折扣的竅門是提前在微信上購買所有東西,但我們無法使用微信的支付功能。經過一番谷歌翻譯和手忙腳亂,我們得到了門票,其中包含短得離譜的滑雪板和滑雪杖,價格大約是130元人民幣,不到19美元。“咱們走吧!”約翰說,我們上了纜車,很快就掠過了光禿禿的地面。

  Many ski resorts in China can rent equipment and buy lift tickets by the hour. The trick to getting a discount is to buy everything up front on WeChat, but we can't use WeChat's payment feature. After some Google translation and some scrambling, we were able to get tickets, including ridiculously short skis and poles, for about 130 renminbi, or less than $19. "Let's go! 'we got on the cable car and soon skimmed the bare ground,' says John.

  我們從半山腰滑了幾趟,那是能滑雪的最大高度,直到他們降下更多的雪。我滑上一個感覺光滑順暢的表面時,滑雪板的邊緣發出嘶嘶聲。滑道兩旁是橙色的柵欄,中間大多是初學滑雪的人,他們對掃雪機的笨拙姿態很感興趣。在高峰期,這里大約會有1500人。

  We skied a few times from the mountainside, the maximum height we could ski, until they dropped more snow. The edges of the skis hissed as I skied on a surface that felt smooth. The pistes are lined with orange fences, and in the middle are mostly novice skiers interested in the clumsy stance of the plows. At its peak, there are about 1500 people here.

  “你們是哪國人?”滑道頂上的人問道。金文濤(音)的英文名是Daniel,來北方滑雪之前,他曾在中國南方學習英語。他已是一個出色的滑雪者,如今他身在政府創造3億滑雪愛好者工程的前沿。每周有幾個下午,學校的孩子們會來聽他講基本課程。

  What nationality are you? Asked the man at the top of the slide. Jin wentao, whose English name is Daniel, studied English in southern China before coming to the north for skiing. He was already an excellent skier and is now at the forefront of the government's project to create 300 million skiers. Several afternoons a week, school children would come to hear him talk about basic subjects.

  “你喜歡嗎?”我問。

  Do you like it? I asked. I love it," he said. To realize his dream, he doesn't mind sharing a dorm room with three other people at the age of 29. "Skiing sets you free."

  “太喜歡了,”他說。為了實現夢想,他不介意自己29歲還和另外三個人合住宿舍。“滑雪讓你自由。”

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